Tree Mind

There are some trees that, like some people, look better with their clothes on. Winter tells all. The deciduous trees all along our path were fully exposed in the crisp winter air, and were telling lots of stories. Poplars like the one pictured here have a fairly confused nature to begin with. Or maybe it's better to say they don't waste excessive energy on creating symmetry. Add a little storm injury into the equation, or someone's attempt to limit the size of the tree, and you've got a tangled mess.

Although it is not a pleasant experience to pass by butchered trees -- tree after tree, mile after mile -- it is fascinating to study the trees as we travel along, to see how they have adapted and survived. If the train is traveling slowly enough, I can do forensics on the trees as we pass. In the less affluent areas, tree abuse is more common, though no particular income group is guiltless. Sometimes we pass areas of recent storm damage, and I can often tell if the breakage was from ice or wind or both. Other areas seem to be vulnerable to root rot. Occasionally we pass a park area where some really ace arborists must be employed, full of trees with impeccable histories of good care.

In some places there are trees I'd rather just see put out of their misery. I can guess about how many years ago a not very skillful person got up into the tops with a chainsaw to do damage that will never be erased as long as the tree is standing. But then, there are places along the way where people are probably grateful for any hint of shade in the summer, or for the winter winds to be slowed just a bit by their hacked up trees. It's not up to me that their top priority should be tree health, or the beauty of a tree manifesting its full potential.

But I must say, I have a hard time letting go of this issue. I do appreciate symmetry, whether in the forms of trees or buildings or rocks. And I do recognize that as a prejudice, at least in the case of trees.

When a tree by its own doing is not strongly symmetrical, I like to think about what the tree is trying to accomplish by taking the form it does. Trees have all different strategies, about how fast they grow, how much growth they shed, how they spread seed, when and where they germinate, how long they expect to live, how they react to damage, and so on. Sometimes deep symmetry is part of that strategy, and sometimes it's not. Poplars don't care so much.

And when the tree has been altered by hackers, there is an opportunity to admire nature's resilience even while squirming uncomfortably at the misshapen results.

D.C.

In the past few days we have done many museums, which were far more interesting than I'd expected. But tiring. Seems to me that museums must have a secret apparatus under the floor, like a vacuum cleaner, that sucks your energy mercilessly until you find yourself sitting in the museum cafeteria in a dazed heap, eyes glazed over, barely noticing that you've just ingested a double expresso as a pick-me-up.

We also got out on a hike, to some wetlands, which are showing off all the beautiful subtle gold-brown-red colors of late winter. Nearby woods are maple, sweetgum, oak, ash, beech and other species that I can't quite identify in this season. Our walk on the frozen snow is crunchy, like a loudspeaker announcing to wildlife that we are coming. After standing quietly for awhile and tuning in, it's clear that there are many life forms all around.

Today is for one more museum, and some quiet time at home.

Kitchen Girl

Alison took us on an ambitious tour yesterday. Today it was snowing, she went to work, and we decided to rest.

However, Ni hit her stride about mid-morning and has been cooking ever since. I think she's got things just about synchronized for Alison's return....

Dinner At Alison's

Good food, nice place.... Hey, whose art is that on the walls?

Little Falls of the Potomac

Two of my favorite women pretend they are not cold on our walk through a surprisingly rural area within a short distance of downtown Washington....

Woodacres

We visited our childhood home the other day, where Dad planted the beech tree as a sapling. Now it dominates the yard. As an arborist, I wanted to knock on the door and show the current owners why they need to trim that lowest large limb. A considerable portion of the trunk is going to be pulled away from the tree when that branch lets go.

But, of course, I was too shy to say anything.

National Portrait Gallery

See how excited Alison is? There's a feeling in the air here. "Hope" pretty much sums it up.

National Portrait Gallery 2

Fur

Alison's apartment is graced by the presence of three VFC (Very Furry Cats). There is also a bit of static electricity because of the heating system. My cotton/polyester pullover is being converted into a fur coat. In fact, we may have all-fur clothes before we leave. Here's hoping there are not misunderstandings with animal rights advocates when we get on the streets with our remodeled wardrobe.....

Old Glory, Union Station

It wasn't hard to find an American flag to pose with.

When in Rome....

Arrival In Washington

We floated into Union Station, Washington D.C., on about two hours sleep. Tired, yes. But excited too. We hadn't seen Alison for about three years.

Slept well that night.....

Union Station, Washington D.C.

This station has recently been remodeled in an exquisite way. We were stunned.

Cleveland to D.C.

Our time in the Cleveland area was delightful. Ajaree and Shyam were so warm and kind, and we met several friends, saw a wonderful concert, went to the art gallery, and admired many trees and much snow.

The trains out of Cleveland leave at bizarre times, in both directions. We were supposed to depart at 2:25 AM. Our train didn't actually leave until nearly 4 AM. Nevertheless, it felt great to be on a train again as we rocked and rolled through the rest of the night and into the dawn. We were in Pittsburgh and then the surroundings became very rural. Woods and hills and mountains and rivers, some open pastures.... It was a beautiful ride.

We got into Washington about 3 PM. Union Station was beautiful. (We have photos, but I can't upload them just yet....) Alison was right at the tracks to meet us. So wonderful to see her! She escorted us out, and I was somehow surprised to be looking at the dome of the U.S. Capitol, so nearby. She drove us the small distance to her house, which took us by all the famous government buildings, such as the White House, Smithsonian, Washington and Lincoln and Jefferson monuments, etc.

I had thought only of seeing Alison, and was thinking of being in Washington as a slight drawback, a side-effect of seeing her. I hadn't been here since the war protests of the 60's. So I was surprised to find myself excited by the sights. I also had not made the connection, believe it or not, with having been born here. Today Alison will take us to see the first house we ever lived in, with large trees that were planted by my dad about sixty years ago!

Pictures coming.....

The Spicy Life Is The Good Life

Shyam and Ajaree's spice kit in Cleveland. We ate well. Gives new meaning to the expression "rolling down the road".

Papaya Salad

I forgot to mention that there was a cooking festival for the day of the inauguration. Ajaree and Niramon almost missed the speech because of their focus on having the dumplings steamed just so....

New iPod

Ni is totally fascinated with her new iPod. Fortunately or unfortunately, Ajaree helped Ni load up something like 1900 songs. Now Ni just walks around with those plugs in her ears, humming. Seems that conversation with me has become much less fascinating to her....

Concert About Martin Luther King

We got into Cleveland about 6:30 in the morning. Our friends Ajaree and Shyam had gotten up at 4 AM and drove into the city to get us.... Then we drove back to their house in Hudson, about an hour away.

That night they drove us back into Cleveland and we all attended a concert in honor of Martin Luther King. It was a free concert with the Cleveland Symphony Orchestra and a black choir. Seemed like there were about 300 people on stage. Great acoustics too.

The music was beautiful. But what was really really wonderful was the spirit of the audience. I'd guess the crowd was about 95% black, and there was such a feeling in the air, in anticipation of the inauguration. Several speakers said what everyone was thinking, about how remarkable it is that we are about to have a black president when the civil rights movement is fresh in the memory of so many people right in this very room. And so on.

The last number was skillfully led by a man who played the energy of the crowd like a violin. I don't remember the name of the song, but he had everyone singing, swaying, clapping, and many hallelujahs were bouncing of the walls as well. We cried with happiness, which happened a lot this week, every time we considered the whole situation.

What we keep hearing is, "I have a son. I have a daughter. Now I can tell them, honestly, that they can be anything they want to be."

I don't know how the presidency will go, but this is a wonderful moment.

Goop

Hair

Ajaree decided that Ni's hair needed a remodel. She whipped up a special batch of henna, which had been personally transported by her husband on a return trip from India.

Ni's somewhat white hair is now a thing of the past. I mean, she still has hair, only now the color has changed. Looks nice.

Union Station, Chicago

Another lovely old train station, this is Union Station in Chicago. Confusion reigned, as a rather cold streak of weather had caused pipes to burst and flooding was rampant. Luckily we had only a six hour layover.... It was fun though, as many of the trains that were leaving were packed with Obama-ites, making their pilgrimage to the inauguration in Washington. I found myself crying several times, as it was so clear how blacks were feeling about this amazing transition that was about to happen.

We had several Americans apologize to us for Bush, many practically spitting with disgust. But the air held more optimism than anything else. People really are looking forward to the change.

Western Colorado

Early Morning in Utah

I guess there are a few other things that light up the heart as easily as watching the sun rise over mesas, but this was an easy one to appreciate. The lounge car had just opened, and the attendant made a show of giving me a free refill of strong coffee for being his first customer. It doesn't get much better than this!

A little later we came to Green River, Utah, 25 miles from the ranch where,long ago, I worked for one memorable summer. I had hoped to glimpse familiar landmarks, but instead we were surrounded by a winter fog. My old memories, also foggy, will have to serve.

Young Painters

Somewhere this side of Reno Ni was sitting in the lounge car sketching the countryside when children appeared. Shy at first, but fascinated, their eyes watched Ni's brushes like a cat waiting for a door to magically open. I flapped my mouth and generously offered to sacrifice Ni's paints and paper to them. So the two children, who had never painted before, proved to be prolific painters.

Their parents introduced themselves, and the family was a joy to meet. They are Amish, and had a way about them that felt very solid and gentle and loving. Turns out they were on a joy ride, returning from San Diego to their community in Iowa. Like us, they love train travel, and use an Amtrak Rewards credit card to earn points that allow them to take a free trip once a year. Unlike us, they had a sleeper compartment, and looked fresh and rested throughout the trip.

Late Afternoon

The various landscapes that we passed through blended together in my mind, and now, a few days later, I can't sort out just when we got to where. But that's appropriate to the trip. If I had driven a car, with all the tension over making time and keeping the tank full and motels and all that, I'd likely remember the order of things. With train travel, none of that matters, and so there's a floating quality, gently riding along marinating in beauty all around.

So all I end up knowing is that this photo was taken in the late afternoon, and it probably wasn't in Nebraska!

Ponderosa Pines

I loved seeing Ponderosa Pines again, in their natural habitat. Couldn't quite smell their vanilla scented bark through the train windows, but could imagine it....

Sacramento to Denver

The scenery from Sacramento to Denver was especially beautiful.... First, the Sierra Nevada range, then down into Reno and across the desert all through the night. At first light we were in Utah canyon country. Followed the Colorado River for over 200 miles, then crossed the Rockies and descended into Denver early the next evening.

More pix to follow....

Ni's Sushi Meditation

 

Back To The Old Country

 

As an American-become-Canadian, this trip brings me back to places that drip with familiarity. I love the countryside of America. No matter how troubling the politics, the land is gorgeous, awe-inspiring.

Eucalyptus Trunks

 

Eucalyptus and California Sky

 
Our first real destination is San Luis Obispo. Here we feel like moles who have just emerged from a tunnel. I hadn't seen the sun in weeks, and suddenly we find ourselves in T-shirt weather under absolutely clear skies.

Our hosts in San Luis were wonderful to us. I felt a warmth and comfort in their house that is hard to describe. There are houses where you are afraid to make a move because you will surely sully or break something. There are other houses with many things around, but all that stuff says nothing of the people who live there. And then there are houses like this, speaking so openly about who lives in them, about their interests and genuine warmth. When you come upon a house like this, you know it's a true home.

The Clock

Some time ago, in the late fall, Ni knew she had to get up early for work, and there was a storm warning, which meant that the electricity might go out. Not trusting our electric clock, we started looking around for our travel clock, which is battery powered, small, and light. It was nowhere to be found, and after about half an hour of looking I blurted out in frustration, “If I ever find that clock, I'm going to throw it away! I'm tired of having so much stuff that we can't find what we want....” And so on. In other words, I gave what Ni calls “a performance”.

What does that have to do with Amtrak, you ask? Well, I am just getting to that. Last night was our first night on the train, meandering through northern California, rocking around, a baby crying nearby, and I couldn't sleep a wink. So I headed for the lounge car to read my book on the American banking and money system. Which ought to cure insomnia, but didn't.

Anyway, that left Ni free to sleep across two seats in our passenger car. And she was doing a good job of it. About 4:30 she started dreaming that a cell phone was ringing. And then she woke up, aware that many annoyed neighbors were restlessly giving her The Eye. Slowly she realized she was not dreaming, and that the sound she was hearing was not a cell phone. Turns out it was the alarm clock we couldn't find last fall. Where was it? In my travel toiletry bag, of course.

So much for the clock and my threats of revenge. Some people have a little egg on their face now and then. Me, I like to make sure I'm wearing a 12 egg omelet at all times....

Harmony on the Train

Impressions of Seattle: many buses, even on Sunday morning, with a “free zone”; lots of other- colored service people; about half the people are really friendly, others more remote; Whole Foods overwhelming, so many choices, so expensive, so crowded – like where's the Depression we keep hearing about?; protesters about gay rights and Jesus, but not about war; train station big, empty, deserted; that we can land people on the moon but cannot make a train station public address speaker work....The sound is both deafening and garbled.

Our train left right on time.... Not even crowded, not like I expected, after several days of suspended service. Nice gentle trip. The biggest difference between this trip and previous trips is that so many people have laptops and cell phones. People don't talk to each other much, but certainly spend lots of times yakking with friends on the phone in faraway places.

There's a guy across from us with a big drama. Took a job on a referral from his friend. Seems he came from far away and was staying with the friend's girlfriend in order to do the job. Within a couple of days, according to this fellow passenger, the friend's girlfriend was trying to seduce him, and so after a week he had to “get the hell out of there”. Now he's got $400 in his pocket, and that's all his money in the world, and he's headed for Reno, Nevada. He doesn't know why Reno. Doesn't know anyone there. It's just a destination that occurred to him. We heard the whole drama in excruciating detail, explained not once, but over and over ad nauseum.

There's always someone annoying nearby, it seems. (Sometimes it's us, no doubt, rattling plastic bags, or somehow disturbing the others in ways we are blind to.) Right now there's a family a few seats in front of us. The mother has two babies. One is very young, a boy. The older one is a little girl named Harmony. The mother continually barks orders at Harmony. Harmony, GET OVER HERE! Harmony, sit down! Harmony, stand up! Harmony, go to the bathroom NOW! She's got a really aggressive and nearly violent tone in almost every exchange with the kid. Once she referred to the child as Harmony May, and I explained to Ni that when we get a middle name used on us, it's time to run. The poor kid. Harmony is going to be a disaster area. I was telling Ni that it would be better parenting to just travel with a roll of duct tape. Joking, of course.

Rainy night, Seattle traffic

Sightseeing in Seattle

Ni studies the map in preparation for a whirlwind sightseeing tour of Seattle. Oh, no, wait a minute.... She just "changed her mind" and began snoring!

Elegance and Emptiness

Seattle's beautiful Amtrak station has seen all sorts of dignitaries pass through over the years. But those days are gone. Today it is empty, partly because no trains are running, partly because it is more fashionable to be in a rush to get from place to place.

In Seattle

We had the honor of riding B.C.'s newest ferry yesterday, the Coast Celebration, on its first day in service. Nice boat. I got started on my new book, The Creature from Jekyll Island, which is not science fiction, as would be implied by the title. No, it's a fascinating account of the American banking system, written many years ago, which predicts perfectly today's banking "crisis". Maybe I'll write more on that later.

Arriving in Seattle after dark, we were unceremoniously dumped by our bus at the Space Needle, far across town from our hotel. I asked Ni if she wanted to ride the glass elevator to the top of the Space Needle. Since we just happened to find ourselves there, it seemed like an OK thing to do.

She said no, and I had a chuckle, since she urges me now and then to do the commercial bungee cord jump off a bridge in Nanaimo. "We'd be tied together by our legs", she says, whenever she brings it up. To me that is a fairly scary idea. I tell her it's better to just be tied together by our hearts, like we already are.

In any case, the idea of this elevator ride scares her somehow. Go figure....

So we paid a few bucks and got on the Monorail instead. As we got underway I started explaining to Ni how this was a technology of the future when it was introduced, and was feeling impressed with the speed of the ride. But before I could finish my explanation, we arrived at the last and only stop. I don't think we were on it more than two or three minutes! I had to laugh at the gap between my expectations and the reality.

This morning we visited Amtrak. They seem fairly certain the train will leave tomorrow morning, that the tracks are expected to be open. I like to give them the benefit of the doubt wherever possible, as I am a big fan of train travel. But there was a really challenging hour spent at the ticket window, with the clerk telling me the 30 day pass now costs more than I paid. After I explained the situation, he was willing to honor our prepaid arrangements, but the computer wouldn't allow him to do so. So his supervisor was called, and then his supervisor's supervisor. And then all our reservations had to be re-booked. The workers sat at two computers, and as one pressed a key to delete us from a certain leg, the other pressed a key to renew us, just to make sure the computer could find room for us. Many codes were entered. Seems like it worked. I give them my compliments for their determination to overcome the minds of short-sighted programmers and their machines.

All Aboard

Leaving Victoria with our 30 day Amtrak passes, we're off to a running start. All Aboard! All Aboard for the Amtrak Experience.... (As I write this, I am wondering if it is possible to make myself write "All Aboard" without an exclamation mark.)

There's only one wee hitch to this idea of getting away. I made some non-refundable Hotwire hotel reservations for Seattle, and paid for bus tickets online, so that we can get to the train on time. Turns out there is no rush. I called about a glitch in our reservations, only to discover that all service to and from Seattle has been suspended indefinitely due to mudslides and flooding.

I asked about alternate service arrangements, which usually means you are put on a bus rather than a train. Alas, no such luck. The train leaves from Portland, and we can go down there if we want, but service from Portland could likewise be suspended. In fact, the interstate between Seattle and Portland is likewise closed, so there's not much to do other than be patient and hope that service will soon resume.

This is reminiscent of the time our train stopped in Minneapolis because it was 50 below zero and there was some fear that the rails might snap in the cold. Plus there was too much avalanche danger in Montana. So we did three days in a hotel waiting for the train, watching snowflakes the size of pie plates dropping from the sky. Actually, we had a pretty good time waiting. And those days of waiting and wondering are somehow more memorable than most of the other days that pass without any dose of the unexpected.

So this is a slight setback.... Nevertheless, the hotel and bus reservations are non-refundable, so we will leave on schedule, and perhaps, if we have to start from Portland, we'll get an unexpected visit to Powell's Books as a bonus side effect of the delay.